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Sincerely,  Debbie Lumley
INTERCEPT dog training


Socializing Your Dog  (Puppy)

The socialization process is complex and requires dedication and proper timing based on the dog’s level of social maturity and threshold for adapting to various levels of stress. 
A well socialized dog is highly adaptable and accepts guidance and leadership from the handler.  The dog should be compliant and exhibit a high level of impulse control founded in solid obedience skills.  
Below you will find a list of items that all well socialized dogs should readily accept to prove adaptability and social tolerance.  Dogs should be exposed to these items in a very positive manner, get help with a trained professional if you are unsure:

People:
adults
children
seniors
disabled
various ethnicities 

Places:
friends' houses, pet stores
outdoor mall,strip malls
car rides 
veterinary office
obedience classes
neighborhood park 
beach, boardwalk
farmer's markets
outdoor restaurants
parades, sports events
parking structures
tourist areas 

Sounds:
doorbell, TV, radio, pots and pans
vacuum, stereo, clapping
dropping things, whistle
sirens, singing, car horns 
balloons popping
noisemakers (party)
popcorn popping, electric saw
blender, can opener, lawn mower
fireworks, yelling, cheering, drums
electric tools, yard blower
garbage disposal 
automatic garage door 

People riding:
bicycles 
skateboards
wagons
roller skates
motorcycles
pogo sticks

People who are:
walking, running, bending, hopping, crawling, swimming, yelling, cheering
bathing, carrying things, eating, pushing grocery carts or strollers,
in a wheelchair, using a walker, using crutches, using a cane or wearing sunglasses, coats, hats, gloves, in a sling...... 


Deborah Lumley CPDT-KA
The places mentioned to the left are public and privately owned, you are responsible to ensure dogs are allowed before you take your canine friend along!  Igornance of local ordinances or laws does not excuse responsibility.
First, you should understand that there are two components to "training" and they are frequently mixed. There is the kind of training that solves behavioral problems. There is also the kind of training that creates a command-response pattern. It is perfectly possible to have a dog that heels, sits, and stays perfectly and digs out all your marigolds. Conversely, you may have a dog that does not destroy things in your house nor jump up on people, but does not sit or heel. For purposes of clarity, I consider the former type of training as "behavior modification" and the latter type as "obedience training."    Author:Cindy Moore, Copyright 1995
I got this from a website open to any and all who love dogs:   www.k9domain.org/default.aspx 



 "....other reasons why the alpha theory doesn’t work it is important to define some terms in order to avoid confusion.:

Let us start with dominance and leadership. Those two word sound almost synonymous but the fact is that they are not the same thing. Dominance is defined by the ‘relationship between two animals established by force/aggression and submission to determine who has access to resources’ (Bernstein 1981, Drews 1993), while leadership is defined by the ‘ability to influence others to do things they wouldn’t normally do’. Leadership can indeed be gained without the use of force or aggression. By creating clear boundaries and guidelines which are regularly enforced and making it clear that you are in control over the resources you give (e.g. food, attention, etc) one can start to establish leadership. We would also have to stop reinforcing bad behaviors and remove anything that is remotely reinforcing them.  
A classic example of a dominating technique is the alpha roll. The concept behind this is that if you roll a dog on his back, in the similar way an alpha wolf rolls other wolves, you are showing him that you are more dominant. Those that advocate this method couldn’t be more wrong. The alpha roll also has its basis in a faulty observation, initially biologist thought that an alpha would roll another on his back to demonstrate dominance; now we know that the so called alpha roll is not forced upon the offending wolf but rather the lower ranking wolf is willingly rolling over to show submission. Again this is an example of how submission and not dominance is used to keep the peace in a pack. The only cases recorded where a wolf (or feral dog) rolls another over on his/her back forcefully was in order to kill it. If this is the intent of the forceful alpha roll, then what are you telling your dog when you roll him/her over? A logical comparison would be a boss pointing a gun at you and asking you not to repeat a mistake!
Any dominating technique that uses force is better to avoid for another reason. When you implement alpha rolls, harsh leash checks, scruff shaking, etc you are teaching your dog that aggressive struggles for dominance is fair play. A dog that mistakenly thinks this way may use force to try to dominate other people such as elderly or young members of the family and such a dog could be a health hazard. All in all, it's best simply to avoid these methods because you gain a lot less than you loose!
"My dog always looks GUILTY after he's done something bad!"

    No. He's reacting to your body language and emotions. When you come in and see the toilet paper all over the floor, or the furniture chewed, or a big smelly mistake on the floor or bed, you get mad. The dog can tell that you are upset by your body language and possibly your VOICE!  The only thing he knows how to do is to avoid confrontation and possible negative consequences.  So he/she tries to appease your bad mood by  crouching, crawling, rolling over on their backs, or possibly submissive peeing,or avoiding eye contact. You are interpreting the dog as acting "guilty" (humanizing the dog or anthropomorphism) when in fact the dog (canine) is not emotionally wired for this particular emotion. 

  Changing or correcting unwanted behaviors can be done but you have to catch dogs "in the act."  in order to reliably communicate to the dog what is is you do not like. Screaming and yelling at the dog, or punishing it after the fact does not tell your dog what is wrong. You may in fact wind up teaching it to fear you, or consider you unreliable.  (Remember that if your dog finds that it cannot consistently rely on you to be fair and predictable, it will begin to distrust you -- just as you would learn to distrust someone who unpredictably flew into rages.)  Preventing your dog from unwanted behaviors coupled with properly timed corrections will go much further in eliminating the behavior from your pet rather than yelling at it. In fact, you should not yell at, scream at, or hit your dog, ever. There are much more effective ways to get your point across. Try instead to understand the situation from your dog's point of view (is he bored, anxious, under exercised?) and read up on what to do, or call a local professional for help or call me to Intercept the behaviors! 

CONVERSATIONS WITH YOUR CANINE

   All your actions and methods of communication must be clear, concise, and consistent-SPEECH, BODY LANGUAGE, TONE, EYE CONTACT..... 
Consistency and timing of rewards or corrections is ongoing throughout the life of your dog, the life of you and your dog’s relationship-that is- for as long as you are both alive and live together in close proximity, it is essential in the animal/human bond
   Within your home your dog will have different interactions and bonds with each family member, or close friend. Each different member must work, train (being the human leader and not have inappropriate (jump at greeting…) or rude behaviour (begging for food or attention by nudging, staring, or sitting on foot…..etc…).  The time spent together should be quality-   doing what you both enjoy! Your relationship together will grow and be healthy, born out of respect by both parties for each party.  Structure and consistency; training and work together which is fun and rewarding (teaching tricks and fetch of an object are examples of work and training that is considered FUN & REWARDING!!!). 
   If you have a question concerning you and your dog’s relationship with any problem behaviour, please  call me or fill out the questionnaire on my website.  I charge $40 for an evaluation, my time with you is a chance for both of us to determine if I can help you.  If I feel I can not help you for any reason, I will refer you to a professional that I know amongst my peers and associates I have met from various continuation education seminars, that may be more experienced with you particular situation.

Sincerely, 
Debbie

copied and pasted by permission
Keeping Your Dog Safe at the Dog Park

How to ensure your dog has only good experiences at the dog park.
Dog parks have gotten a bad rap in the past few years, thanks in large part to articles written and statements made by training and behavior professionals. That’s unfortunate, because, while there are, indeed, problems with some dog parks, a well-run facility can be a lifesaver for some dogs.


These days, most dog park administrators understand the need for rules that purport to regulate, at least to some degree, the behavior of the canines and humans who avail themselves of the dog park privilege. Problems arise when there’s no one in attendance to monitor the action and enforce the rules. Some parks run well on a peer-pressure basis, but this format often acts only to evict an offender after a problem arises – sometimes a serious one – rather than screening users in advance to prevent problems.
The majority of official dog parks are municipally owned and operated. I am always delighted to see communities recognize that dog owners and their canine family members are as deserving of a slice of the local park pie as are soccer players and Little League teams. However, very few municipally run dog parks provide adequate supervision. They put up the fence, post signs with rules, and keep the grass watered and mowed, and that’s it. When problems arise, animal control is called, and the issue may or may not be resolved to everyone’s satisfaction.
The ideal model for a successful dog park is a privately owned or very well-supervised municipal facility where dogs are screened before being accepted and owners are issued membership cards that they swipe to gain entry through a locked gate. The park should have at least one attendant on duty during park-use hours, to intercede, hopefully before a problem behavior becomes serious, but if not, at least to manage the situation after something occurs.
You
Half the problems (or should I say at least half the problems) at many dog parks stem from human behavior rather than dog behavior. When you take your dog to a park your primary responsibility is to keep your eyeballs on her and intercede if/when things are getting dicey.
There can be a fine line between two dogs happily playing body-slam and chew-face, and the moment one decides he’s had enough and things escalate to real snapping and snarling. If you and your dog-owner friend are drinking wine and chatting with your backs to the action, you’ll miss the early warning signs that trouble is brewing, and lose the opportunity to intervene before things turn ugly. Oops, too late! Now there’s a full-blown dogfight, and you’ve lost your dog park privileges. Turn in your membership card!
Rule-ignoring is also a problem. See that 85-pound Shepherd in the small-dog area? That’s a tragedy waiting to happen. The owner who is blithely feeding her dog pieces of chicken while her toddler tried to hug the pretty doggies, even though the sign says “no treats in the off-leash area” and “no children under 8”? Another disaster in the making. Maybe two or three.
Well-run parks have paid staff whose job it is, among other things, to make sure dogs and humans play by the rules. Parks that aren’t staffed are likely to have a much higher rate of unfortunate incidents than those that do, thanks in large part to those oblivious owners who think that rules only apply to others. If you plan to play in the park with your dog, be sure you’re not one of them.
Your Dog
Perhaps you are fortunate enough to have a well-run dog park in your community. How to do you if your dog is a good dog park candidate? For starters, she must already play well with others. A dog park is for socializing, not for socialization. It’s a terrific place for a dog who already understands how to read and respond appropriately to the body language of other dogs. It’s a great place for a dog who enjoys the company of other dogs and likes to engage in appropriate play. It’s not the right place for a dog who is socially challenged. The undersocialized dog needs to learn those skills elsewhere, and may never be comfortable with rowdy play styles of unknown stranger dogs in a dog park setting.


If your dog is undersocialized, she needs to learn her canine social skills in a more controlled environment than a dog park. Pair her with one appropriate dog, who will tolerate her social ineptness. If yours is a little shy, a calm, stable adult dog can help her learn that other dogs are okay, maybe even fun to be around. If yours is a Rowdy Roberta who never learned when to back off, a more energetic playmate is in order, but one who will politely, firmly, and without taking offense, tell your dog when enough is enough. In time, you hope, she will learn to self-inhibit her over-excited play, and be ready for group action. Or not. Some dogs are never good candidates for dog park membership.
It’s perfectly normal for some dogs to eschew group play even from an early age. Others start out in life happy to play with all comers, but as they mature, decide they’d rather have a small circle of intimate play partners rather than interact with the canine hoi polloi found at most dog parks. Dogs who love to romp with any and all takers for their entire lives are the exception rather than the rule in the canine world – really not all that different from humans in that respect, when you think about it.
If you have any doubts about your dog’s suitability for dog-park-play, get an outside opinion. Ask a competent dog behavior and training professional or a very dog-knowledgeable friend to evaluate your dog’s social skills before taking the park plunge and risking an incident that could put your dog and others at risk of harm. It could be a costly mistake if your dog attacks another and you end up paying vet bills and dancing to the often-onerous demands of your local dangerous dog ordinance.
If you do think your dog is a good park candidate, be sure you’re making an honest assessment. It’s easy to be blinded by your love for your canine pal. Unless he has a history of playing well with lots of dogs in a wide variety of situations, approach your dog park experience with caution. Make his first visit to the park at a low-usage time, perhaps accompanied by that dog-knowledgeable friend who can help you interpret his behavior around other dogs and assist with intervention should things not go according to plan. You cannot be too careful. And remember that dogs don’t have to go to dog parks.
Your Park
Here are some things to look for:
-Space and fencing. The best parks are several acres or more, and are enclosed by a sturdy, well-maintained fence that’s at least six feet high, perhaps with an anti-climb device on the top, and preferably buried in the ground at the bottom. If the area is too small for the number of dogs, there is a greater risk of canine conflict; the more space there is, the easier it is for a dog to avoid dogs that make her uncomfortable. And, of course, good fencing prevents escapes.
Another vital escape-protection and safety measure is an “airlock” system of gates, where dogs and their humans enter the park into a small enclosed space with another gate to the actual park run area. The owner removes the dog’s leash in this airlock, checks to be sure the gate behind her is latched, and then opens the gate into the park. This prevents dogs from slipping out when a new dog enters the park, and also avoids the “one dog on-leash being mauled by a pack of loose dogs” scenario that can give rise to aggression and fear-causing incidents.


There should be at least two separately fenced areas in the park, clearly designated for large and small dogs, and owners should respect the designations. Even better: four or more separate areas clearly defined by size and play-style, so dogs who enjoy a good game of “chase me” aren’t being tackled by body-slammers.
-Maintenance. Upkeep of the facility is another important consideration. Scrutinize the conditions of the park. Is the grass mowed and nurtured, or is the park a muddy mess with overgrown weeds? There are some parks that are kept in a more natural state – especially parks that are larger and include woods and meadows and real hiking trails, but the entrance and social area should still be well maintained. If there’s equipment for dogs to play on, it should also be kept up – painted, no splintered or rotten wood, and no exposed nails.
-Rules. All good dog parks have rules. They should be clearly posted in plain view and obeyed. The best parks have someone in attendance to monitor rule compliance as well as user comfort and safety. Some assign their human users a numbered armband that they are required to wear when using the park so if there is an incident of some kind the culprit can be easily identified. Read the rules to be sure you are willing and able to comply with them before taking your dog to the park.
-Ambience. Visit the park at several different times of day without your dog. You’ll see usage patterns – low, high, and moderate-use times throughout the day. You may also see specific groups of dogs who tend to come at fairly fixed times. With this information you can make deliberate decisions about when you want to bring your dog (high or low usage) and which groups of dogs might be the best match for her (and which dog owners you might most like to hang out with – it’s a social outing for you, too!).
If everything looks positive after your fair and careful assessment of the park and your dog, you’re in luck! Now it’s time to go to the park with your dog. Pick a low usage time at first, even if you’re convinced she will have a blast with the group of six-to-eight dogs that normally gathers at 6 pm.

Do this a few times, at least, until she’s clearly delighted to be there. This will give her a chance to explore and get comfortable with the environment without being mobbed and overwhelmed. Her introduction to the 6 pm group will go much more smoothly if she’s not distracted and wondering where the heck she is. The positive association she gets from being and playing there without being stressed by a pack of dogs will help her through any stress that may arise as a result of being greeted by multiple dogs.
When you’re ready for 6 pm, stop by at that time, again without your dog, and let the group know you’ll soon be a newbie in their group. Tell them about your dog, to help ease any concerns they may have about an addition to the 6 pm club.
When you do bring your dog, get there early, assuming there’s less dog traffic while everyone is still at work. Let her run and work off some energy while you’re waiting for the others to arrive. This way she gets to meet and greet them one-at-a-time instead of in a bunch. This is likely to make introductions go more smoothly.
For appropriate dogs, the opportunity to run, play, and socialize with other dogs can be a real blessing to canines and their humans. I still have fond memories from when I was working at the Marin Humane Society (Novato, California) 15-plus years ago of the “dog-pack hikes” that staff would take with their dogs at the nearby off-leash open space areas. We all would return from that lunchtime hike in the hills, dogs tired and humans more relaxed, much better able to deal with the stressors of shelter work.
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, CDBC, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She lives in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center, where she offers dog training classes and courses for trainers. Pat is also author of many books on positive training, including her newest, Do Over Dogs: Give Your Dog a Second Chance at a First-Class Life.
Pay Attention to Your Dog’s Behavior and Body Language



copied in part from Whole Dog Journal for informative purposes.....

Dogfighting is a disgusting and horrendous practice, that takes the innocent lives of loving dogs and inflicts the most horrible abuses possible upon them. Family pets are stolen or taken as "free to good home" from listings such as Craigslist, and then used as bait for other dogs being trained to fight. Innocent children are brought to the fights, learning from the adults that these horrors are acceptable and expected. Everyone suffers, but most of all, the innocent dogs.

Taken in part from this link-caution, the images may be disturbing to some: Horrendous Dog Fighting Victim
National Dog Bite Prevent Week
The Trainer's Role
by Laura Roach, CPDT-KA  

National Dog Bite Prevention Week is May 19-25 and it is our duty, as trainers, to help educate our clients on how their families should safely interact with their favorite four-legged family members. More than 4.5 million people each year are bitten by dogs and 50% of dog bites are to children 12 and under. The majority of dog bites could have been prevented through education.

So What are the Facts?
· More than 4.5 million people each year are bitten by dogs
· Children are most often affected and, when bitten, are more seriously injured
· More than 800,000 people receive medical attention for dog bites each year, and over half of them are children
· Most dog bites to children happen during normal, everyday activities with their dogs, and while interacting with familiar dogs

We need to teach both adults and children how to properly interact with dogs, both familiar and unfamiliar. As dogs have become man's best friend, our trust in them has skyrocketed, but the truth remains that they still have undesirable behaviors that are innate and can be triggered by their human counterparts.

Educating Children

Here are some simple tips to give children when talking to them about interacting with dogs, including their own dog.
· When a dog is busy, leave her alone. Don't try to take her food, toys or bones.
· Never wake a dog up who is sleeping.
· Don't kiss, hug or pick up your dog.
· Never poke, kick, or slap a dog.
· Don't pull on their ears, tails or fur and don't mess with their feet.
· Never approach a dog you don't know.
· If a dog approaches you that you don't know, stand still. Keep your hands at your side and don't look at the dog.
· Always stay calm around dogs. Don't yell, shout or run.
· If you see a dog you want to pet, ask their human for permission first.

Educating Adults

Adults never think their own dog would bite, but put in the right circumstance, any dog can. Educate parents on the do's and don'ts they should teach their kids. Also, recommend the following:
· Spay or neuter your pet
· Don't allow your dog to roam loose
· Don't chain your dog up, especially if people can access your yard
· Supervision is the key! Always monitor your dog when she is around your children or other people. Especially if your dog is around children 12 and under.
· Properly socialize your dog

We can all do our part in helping to lower the instances of dog bites through educating our clients.

Message From the President
by Bradley Phifer CBCC-KA, CPDT-KSA, President, CCPDT
President's Letter - July 2014 
New Business 


The majority of CCPDT's daily work is completed through email and conference calls. Conducting business electronically has its own unique challenges, but like many businesses, the electronic office provides an efficient way to operate when your staff is spread out across the country.

Each May, the CCPDT Board of Directors holds their in-person board meetings to conduct the regular business of the board, evaluate the progress of our strategic goals, and approve new forms of our credentialing exams. The work completed during the in-person meeting is impressive. Equally as impressive, and equally important, are the relationships that are built during our time together.

During the May 2014 Board Meeting the following motions were approved:
1.The Board of Directors adopted the Breed Specific Legislation position statement presented by the Legislative Committee. You can find a copy on the CCPDT website under About Us: Public Policies.
2.The Board of Directors adopted the Electronic Training Collar position statement presented by the Electronic Training Collar Task Force. This position statement will outline the CCPDT view for the use of electronic training collars in dog training. A formal release of the newly adopted position statement was made at the end of June. 
3.The Board of Directors adopted a revised version of the Application of the Humane Hierarchy position statement. This updated version further clarifies the expectation for certificants following the HH in practice. A formal release of the newly adopted position statement was made at the end of June. 
4.The Board voted in new officers, effective July 1: President - Bradley Phifer, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KSA; Vice President - Julia Buesser, CPDT-KA; Treasurer - Ruth LaRocque, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA. Joan Campbell, CCPDT Executive Director, will act as Secretary in the interim until a new Secretary is elected.

This March we had 144 candidates sit for the CPDT-KA examination. 134 of them (93%) passed. The highest score out of 250 was 243 and the lowest score was 162. The mean score was 218.33 (the passing score was 188). Welcome new CPDT-KAs!

 Thank you for your continued support of the CCPDT. You can always reach me at bphifer@ccpdt.org.

 Sincerely,

 Bradley Phifer CBCC-KA CPDT-KSA
President, CCPDT 
bphifer@ccpdt.org  



Yorkie Passes AKC Community Canine Test in Grand Central  

By Mary Burch, AKC CGC Director

It's usually not a good sign when a police officer is holding your dog. 
The dog in the photo is Chowsie, a Yorkshire Terrier owned by Liz Donovan 
of New York City.

 Chowsie didn't get pulled over for speeding, although he was one fast little dog.
 And he didn't get arrested for breaking any rules. As a matter of fact, his behavior 
was perfect.
 So perfect that recently, he passed the AKC Community Canine (advanced CGC)
 test in Grand Central Terminal, NYC.

 So in this photo,the news was good — Chowsie was getting some serious
 congratulations
 from a Grand Central K9 officer.

 "What amazed me the most," said CGC Director, Mary Burch, who tested
 Chowsie, "was the incredible confidence of this little dog. He was unflappable
 and happy to be there. He should be a poster child for toy breeds everywhere.
 He strutted through one of the busiest locations in the world like he owned the place."

 When asked if she had any tips for training a breed that so many people carry everywhere
 in a purse, Liz Donovan said, "I've been working on his behavior for his whole life.
 He's 7 years old; he got his CGC when he was 1 year old. We trained at Petsmart through CGC
. But I work every single day on maintaining his skills at home and in the neighborhood."

 Donovan didn't take all the credit. She was quick to acknowledge Chowsie's breeder. 
"Carolyn Nestor, the breeder, gave me a dog with the best natural temperament and 
she worked so hard to socialize him in the first 12 weeks of his life, so I had a well-behaved, 
confident puppy to start with."

 So BRAVO, Chowsie, CGCA! And just remember, “if you can make it there, you’ll make it anywhere.”



Here is a story that will inspire you to keep on training your dog all his or her life! it pays off!!!
Debbie
Crate Training Done Right

A crate, or, in other words, short-term close confinement, can be used to help dogs teach themselves two very important skills. The first is eliminating only when and where it is appropriate. The second skill is keeping out of trouble - behaving appropriately in the house. Without these two skills, a dog doesn't have much of a chance in this world. 

A crate is inappropriate for long-term confinement. While some puppies are able to make it through an eight-hour stretch in a crate at night, you should be sleeping nearby and available to take your pup out if he tells you he needs to go. 

During the day, a puppy should not be asked to stay in a crate longer than two to four hours at a time; an adult dog no more than six to eight hours. Longer than that and you risk forcing Buddy to eliminate in his crate, which is a very bad thing, since it breaks down his instinctive inhibitions against soiling his den. 

A crate is not a place of punishment. Never force your dog or puppy into a crate in anger. Even if he has earned a time-out through inappropriate behavior, don't yell at him, throw him in the crate, and slam the door. Instead, quietly remove the dog from the scene and invite him into his crate to give both of you an opportunity to calm down. 

For more details and advice on crate training, purchase Whole Dog Journal's ebook Crate Training.